A Kitten Meets a 1 Year Old Cat

Cats can be very territorial -- especially adult cats. Adulthood in cats begins around the age of 1. After this age, pet owners need to be very careful when it comes to introducing new kittens into the home. A proper introduction can go a long way toward improving the relationship between the cats in the future. It can also be instrumental to the safety and security of the young kitten.

Take all pets to a vet before any introductions. Some diseases and parasites are easily transmittable.

Set up separate living quarters. The new kitten should be kept in its own room for about a week, while the older cat has access to the remainder of the home. Be sure both animals have access to food, water, clothes for girl cats, toys, a comfortable place to sleep and a littler box.

Show them a new scent. Switch the cats' blankets or original da bird toys to get them accustomed to the new smell before they meet each other.

Give them a glimpse. Let the cat and kitten see each other from a distance a few times before they are close enough for contact. You can do this through a window or screen, or you can open a small crack in the door to the room where the kitten has been staying.

Encourage play. Give them a da bird butterfly toy they can play with under the door. This way they can begin to bond without the risk of confrontation.

Feed them together. After the cat and kitten have been allowed to see each other and have become accustomed to each other's scent, begin feeding them in the same room. Start at opposite sides of the room and slowly move the bowls closer together.

Take baby steps. Let the cat and kitten stay in the same room, with access to each other, for short periods of time. Gradually increase these time increments.

Expect unpleasantness. Even after gradual introductions, there will be some unhappy reactions at early meetings. The older cat may growl, hiss or swipe at the kitten. The kitten may also show aggression, or it may hide.

Watch them closely. For the first couple of weeks the cat and kitten are allowed contact, do not leave them together without supervision.

Add litter boxes. According to the Humane Society, you should have a litter box for each cat, plus an extra.

Cola Bottle Toys for Dogs and Cats

Sometimes dogs are satisfied with the simplest of toys, grabbing a piece of trash to play with rather than their plush new small animal costume or toy. If your dog has simple tastes, you can indulge her--and save money--by making toys out of empty plastic cola bottles.

Choose a plastic cola bottle that suits your dog's size and play habits. A 2-liter bottle is good for dogs who like a bulky da bird gocat toy, while smaller ones are good for dogs who like to carry around small toys.

Clean the plastic cola bottle, removing the label and the plastic cap ring, if it's still attached. Dry the plastic cola bottle.

Crunch the bottle to get your dog's attention. If your dog's like most dogs, he'll come running. Throw the bottle and he'll take it from there.

Increase the sound effects by putting dried beans in the bottle. Cap it and shake it for your dog. If she likes noisy toys, she'll love this version of the plastic bottle toy.

Place some kibble or broken treats in the bottle and cap it if you want to create a noisy toy and give your dog something to do. Cut a hole in the bottle just big enough to let the treats out one at a time. This version of the bottle toy can keep a food-oriented dog happily occupied for a long time.

Create a longer-lasting chew toy by putting the bottle inside a sock before you give it to him. Tie the sock at the top so your dog won't just pull the bottle out and chew on it.

Make a floating da bird rod toy for a retriever by placing a capped bottle in a large sock and tying it off so there's enough sock left over to use as a handle. You may want to add a little ballast to the bottle for a hefty toy that you can throw further.

Cat Shelves You Can Make

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Do-it-yourself cat shelves make it possible to create a unique jungle gym for domestic cats without requiring a lot of time or materials. Regular wall shelves can be modified slightly in order to create feline-friendly platforms to climb, play and sleep on throughout the home or in a special room designated for kitty activity

Materials
Sturdy home décor shelves that can carry decent weight on them are the best option for the basic platforms. Shelves featuring metal fixtures and wood platforms can be easily customized to suit this project. Choose shelves in different lengths to create a variety of different platforms for cats to play on. Make sure the shelves are sturdy enough to support as many cats as are expected to make use of them. Purchase different materials to cover the shelves such as low pile and shag carpeting to create a variety of interesting platforms.

Assembly
Attach carpeting and other materials to shelves, folding excess material over and attaching to bottom of each shelf using nails or heavy duty staples. Other da bird single pole toys and cat clothing accessories can be attached as necessary to create a jungle gym or play area. During assembly process, make sure that shelf hardware can still be attached and that carpeting surfaces are not getting in the way of the hardware. The shelves need to be attached firmly to the hardware to ensure that they can handle climbing, jumping and playing from one or several cats at once.

Installation
Install shelving as described in manufacturer directions for the brand and style of shelving purchased. Stagger shelves in different patterns and configurations to create a play area for cats. Cats enjoy climbing high, and shelves should be installed high enough that they are out of the way of foot traffic in the room. Install shelves away from areas where cats can become hurt such as above a fireplace. Once shelves are installed, monitor playtime with cats to ensure that the shelves are sturdy and safe before allowing cats to play unattended.

Celebrating a Cat Birthday

Your cat is a very important member of your family. Whether you picked out a special kitten from a breeder, rescued an adult cat from the animal shelter, or took in a stray, why not choose a special day to celebrate your cat?

Choose a date. If you know your cat's actual birthday, you can use that date, or you can use the anniversary of the date you adopted your feline friend. If you can't remember, though, don't worry, your cat will forgive you. Just pick a date you like and go with that.

Shop for presents. These need not be anything too elaborate, and you need not make a special trip to a pet store as most grocery stores and drug stores carry at least a small selection of cat da bird replacement bee toys and treats. Do try to take your cat's personal preferences into account, though--does he actually enjoy playing with catnip da bird mice or those feather-on-a-stick things, or small cat clothes, or would he prefer presents of the edible variety?

Wrap the presents up in some sort of paper--leftover Christmas wrap is fine, or you can use newspaper if you're into recycling. The important part from your cat's perspective is that there be plenty of paper to shred or to chase after some kind human has crumpled it into a ball.

Make up your guest list. Most cats aren't sociable enough to welcome the addition of strange felines into the household, even on a temporary basis, but you may feel free to invite any human friends of which your cat approves, or you could limit the guest list to family members only.

Bake your cat a special kitty cake if you're feeling creative-you can find recipes for homemade cat treats on the internet. If you're not feeling that creative, you can just open a can of cat food and put a little birthday candle on the top. (Don't light it, though, or if you do be sure to blow it out before you get it anywhere near your cat, as you don't want to scare her.)

Be sure to have some treats for your other party guests, too. Perhaps a kitty-themed "people cake" or cookies, and any of your other favorite party snacks. (Your cat would probably vote for cocktail shrimp or some type of chicken, in hopes that some of it might find its way to the floor.)

Entertainment for House Cats

Indoor cats do not have the same opportunities for fun as outdoor cats. They can not climb trees, run for miles, chase birds and stalk squirrels. Just because they don't have access to this stimulation, does not mean they don't crave it. An indoor cat can be treated to similar opportunities if the right adjustments are made to his environment.

Grow cat grass for your cats to eat. Cats need cat grass to help their digestive systems. Keep some in the house growing in a small planter. Do not leave the grass outside where it can be exposed to stray cats and fleas.

Hide cat my little lion cat treats around your house. Cats enjoy hunting and have a tremendous sense of smell. Hiding dry cat treats around the house allows them to hunt and problem solve. Only hide them in safe places, and not near any household chemicals.

Buy gocat da bird pull apart toys for your cats and play with them. Some cats enjoy mice on strings or remote control operated mice to chase. Others like balls and cat wand feathers. Buy a variety of toys and see which toys your cats respond to. Play with them at least twice a day for 10 minutes.

Buy a kitty condo. Kitty condos are free-standing constructions that are about 6-feet tall. They are covered in carpet and can provide the same exercise and stimulation as a tree. They offer places to hide, places to sleep, and some have balls to play with attached.

Give the cats shelves to climb and walk on. These shelves will provide great exercise for your cats. Affix the shelves to the wall using the manufacturer's instructions. Shelves should be about 6-inches deep and 12-inches wide. Stagger the shelves so they can get from one to another. Do not put anything breakable or that could hurt the cats on the shelves. If possible, leave the shelves free of objects.

Provide sunny places to sleep. Install shelves underneath at least 2 windows in your home. The shelves should be large enough for your cats to comfortably sleep on.

A Cat Play Area you can Build

Outdoor cats are more likely than indoor cats to face health risks and danger , even in rural areas. Predators, other territorial animals, cars and humans can create stressful situations for domestic felines who are out. Many people prefer to keep their cats indoors. If your cat is inside most or all of every day, he will have a greater chance of staying healthy and safe. Creating an indoor play area can help keep him fit and entertained. Some cats respond better than others to play areas.

Find a suitable area in your home where you can set up a play yard for the cat. Cats love to look outside, so if the area has a window she can see out of, she may be more inclined to spend time in her cat playground.

Purchase one or two multilevel scratching posts to anchor the cat's play area. Then consider changing the playthings that you provide each week so that the cat remains curious and amused. You can often find reasonably priced scratching posts in the classified section of the newspaper or on sites such as Craigslist.

Hang one or two practice golf balls or cat toys from a sturdy and safe location such as the bottom of a table.

Place an empty box in the play area, with a hole in the box large enough for your cat to climb in and out of. Alternate the empty box with empty paper bags. Cats love to explore and to climb in and out of things.

Mix and match catnip da bird attachment toys or cat collar lion mane toys. Alternate putting them in the play area along with small balls of unused yarn.

Toss a wicker basket or wicker wastebasket into the play area every now and then, and remove it a day or two later. The cat will enjoy climbing in and out of it as well as scratching the soft wicker.

Provide a comfy area for your pet to rest after play. Cats love enclosed areas to snuggle in, so think about using a cardboard box with a medium-size hole. Place a soft blanket, pet cat clothing or old sweatshirt inside for the cat to nestle in. Place the hole in the box facing a window if possible so he can see outside while resting.

Natural Branches for a Cat Tree

If you have a pet cat, you know that cat toy wand set are not enough. You most likely already know that they need a place to scratch. Otherwise, their claws will grow unchecked. By providing your cat with a designated place to scratch such as a cat tree, it's less likely that they'll scratch up your furniture. You can even make your own cat tree using natural tree branches to provide an earthy and visually interesting piece to your home while keeping your cat happy.

Gather tree branches around the house and in parks. The branches should have a minimum diameter of two inches. Place the branches in a large plastic tub and wash them in a natural, animal-safe insecticide. Consult your veterinarian for animal-safe products. Allow the branches to soak in the insecticide for a day.

Wash the branches off with warm water to remove the insecticide. Air dry the branches for a day or two in a dry lighted area.

Mix up enough concrete to fill a large coffee can half way. Place the largest of the branches in the center of the concrete mix, securing it in place. Allow the wet concrete to set up and dry for a few hours. Fill the coffee can up with more concrete and place the remaining branches in the mix, circling the center larger branch. Allow the concrete to dry and cure overnight.

Cut three sheets of plywood that measure 22 by 12 inches. Screw the plywood into the branches to secure them. Stagger their positions up the branches to make multiple level platforms.

Glue scraps of carpet or thick fabric on the surface and edges of the plywood to add a soft place for the cat and protect it from wood edges and screws. Hang bells, da bird guinea feather refill and da bird mouse toys from the branches and platforms.

A Cuddly Cat

Some cats are natural-born cuddlers, while others will make you work for their affections through treats and attention. Others will remain standoffish no matter how much attention you lavish on them. For best results, start training them young and don’t push a kitty who prefers a hands-off approach.

Build Trust
Bond with your cat by establishing trust. Feed her, provide her with a clean litter box and offer her toys and enriching, interactive activities. Don’t chase her or grab her for forced cuddling if she’s resistant. Instead, take your time and work up to a more physical relationship.

Use Positive Reinforcement
Get your cat to associate you with positive things. For example, talk to her while you feed her, and while she’s eating a special treat, stroke her gently so she associates your touch with good food. Similarly, sit on the couch with treats in your pocket and when she comes over to you on her own, offer a goodie. Your cat will soon figure out that when she’s in close proximity to you, good things happen.

Play Often
If your cat is a bit standoffish, interact with her through play. Use a cat toy wand feather dancer or a cat toys teaser wand toy to grab and keep her attention. When she seems worn out, slow the rate of play and put the toy beside you, or in your lap. When she comes to you, give her a treat to make the interaction a pleasant and rewarding activity.

Start Early, Go Slow
Kittens who are handled from a young age are more likely to be social and physically interactive than those who are not. If you adopt an older kitty or a rescue cat, it may take time and patience to establish trust and for your new pet to let her guard down. Don’t push your cat to cuddle. Some cats may need to work up to physical contact.

Accept Loners
While some cats will land in your lap from the first day you bring them home, others are destined to be loners forever. Older, re-homed cats, abused animals or semi-feral cats may always resist being touched or held. Try to consider this part of their personality and be content to love them from afar.

Build your Cat a Jungle Gym

Cats have an ancestral need to climb and jump. Indoor cats especially can benefit from the exercise opportunity a cat jungle gym affords. Pet retailers offer cat jungle gyms that can be assembled easily, but these can be behemoth and can put a real dent in the cat paraphernalia budget. With a little ingenuity, some wood, a few tools and an assortment of my little lion cat treats and cat-approved the super da bird toys, you can build your own cat jungle gym.

Map out your cat jungle gym on the wall of your choice, using your stud finder to determine where you'll be placing your shelf brackets. You'll need to screw your brackets into studs so the shelves of your jungle gym will support your cat's weight. Mark the stud locations with your pencil. You are the master of this design, so consider attaching some shelves at an angle to allow your cats to climb, and leave a distance between others, to encourage your kitty to jump.

Using your measuring tape, measure the distance between your studs. This will guide you on how long your shelves will be. You'll want the length of your shelves to overhang your brackets by a couple of inches on each end of the shelf.

Measure your shelves on your 1-by-6-by-8, using the measurements you took in step 2. If you want a large number of shelves, you may need a second untreated board.

Cut your board or boards using the circular saw. Sand your shelves to remove any rough edges.

Using the wood glue, attach your brackets to your shelves, making sure they're placed properly to mount them according to your design and the location of your studs. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly.

Secure your brackets further by attaching them to the shelves using the wood screws and power screwdriver. Place a screw every couple of inches for maximum stability.

Measure the shelves. Using the utility knife cut the carpet scraps according to the measurements you took in step 9. Staple the carpet pieces to your shelves. Make sure the staples go all the way into the carpet's pile to avoid injury to your cats. If the carpet is very low pile, consider using a carpet adhesive.

Mount your shelves according to your design, angling some shelves, and attaching more than one at a single stud point at varying heights.

Hang cat da bird grasshopper toys from your shelves using the twine. Staple the twine to the underside of your shelf, making sure your staples are flush with the underside of your shelf.

Is Tug of War with Toys Safe?

If Pebbles pounces on your shoelaces every time you walk by her, she clearly wants to play. Engaging in a gentle game of tug-of-war helps her get out some of her pent-up energy and keeps you completely entertained. While tug-of-war is probably an OK game to play with the cat, it can be dangerous if the game gets out of hand or if you use the wrong types of long cat wand toys.


How to Play
Pick up a piece of yarn, Pebbles’ favorite wand or a long feather cat wand toy. Just avoid anything that stretches -- after all, you don’t want to let go and have the toy smack her between the eyes. Wiggle the toy in front of the cat until she takes a nibble and gentle tug at it. If she’s in the mood for tug-of-war, she’ll chomp down on the toy and pull back, trying to get it away from you. After several seconds, slowly let go. Likely, she'll drop the toy. Do it over again. Intrigue her by playing several short games of tug-of-war with a variety of toys rather than pulling at the same toy for an extended period of time.

When to Stop
Pebbles shouldn’t be growling, hissing, nipping or swatting at your hand during your game of tug-of-war. These signs of aggression let you know she is over-stimulated. She needs a few moments to cool down. Stop immediately and let her relax for a few minutes. When she settles down, pick up the toy and go back to playing. If she continues to exhibit aggressive behavior, tug-of-war may not be an ideal game to play with her.

Dangers
If Pebbles starts playing too rough, stop your tug-of-war session immediately. Felines have fragile teeth; if yours tugs at her cat toy wand elastic toy too hard, she could break or even pull out a tooth. Watch for blood, drooling or pawing at her face after your play session. These are signs something in her mouth is awry. In addition, if you’re playing with a string, put it away in a safe spot once you’re done playing. String can be a choking hazard if Pebbles decides to chomp on it on her own.

Other Games
As soon as Pebbles starts getting bored with tug-of-war -- or if it makes her act a little mean -- play fetch with her instead, just like you would with Fido. Toss Pebbles’ mouse toy across the room, giving her the opportunity to pounce on it and then encourage her to bring it back to you. Not all cats understand the game of fetch or care to play. Cats love to hunt, though, so you may pique your cat's interest by wiggling her feathery wand toy on the floor right next to the sofa. When she makes her move, quickly shake it in a new spot. Her natural hunting instincts will kick in, making her want to catch this prey.

Teething Kittens

Despite their small size, teething kittens can damage your furniture, clothes and shoes with their chewing. Your kitten may even decide your fingers and toes are fair game. Provide your kitten with appropriate toys and items to chew to help prevent damage to yourself and your home and protect your cat from chewing and swallowing things that may harm her.

Your kitten will begin teething at approximately 3 1/2 to 4 months of age. Teething continues until all of her adult teeth have grown in at approximately 6 or 7 months of age.

During this process, your kitten's adult teeth begin developing in the gums and placing pressure on the baby teeth. Eventually, the roots of the baby teeth disappear and the adult teeth push the kitten teeth out. Usually, your kitten swallows the baby teeth, but you may occasionally see a baby tooth on the floor or in her dish.

Signs that your kitten is teething include:

1. Chewing
2. Breath odor
3. Drooling
4. Irritability
5. Being reluctant to eat

Chew Toys For Your Kitten
There are many chew da bird toys to consider for your teething kitten. When selecting a toy, make sure it is not something she can swallow or choke on. Avoid hard toys as these may damage her teeth.

Some original da bird toys are designed to be chilled in the refrigerator or freezer to provide relief for your kitten's sore gums. As an alternative, you can freeze a wet wash cloth and give it to your kitten.

Your kitten also may enjoy chewing on grass in a pot. Select a grass that is safe for cats, such as barley, oats, rye, wheat or a combination. You can purchase grass or seeds to grow your own at many pet supply stores.

Although cat teaser wand toys, such as strings or feathers, are not suitable for your kitten to chew on, using them to get your kitten moving can help distract her from teething and drain excess energy. This reduces the chances of her chewing on inappropriate items in your home.

Making a Litter Box Attractive for Cats

Up to 10 percent of all cats develop elimination problems during their lives, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Cats stop using their litter boxes for a variety of reasons, including a medical condition, anxiety or territorial aggression in multiple-cat homes. When your cat stops using its litter box and eliminates in other parts of your home, it stresses out you and your cat. Prevent this messy behavior and train your cat to use its litter box properly by making it pleasant and safe to use.

Place the litter box in a quiet area of your home that your cat can easily get to at all times. Avoid noisy areas such as a laundry rooms, or inaccessible, dark places such as closets or basements. Put the box in a location where the cat can easily escape and does not feel cornered. If possible, place the box in a spot your cat has been eliminating in inappropriately.

Give your cat a litter box without a lid that has enough room for it to turn around comfortably. For young kittens or older cats, provide a litter box with low sides so your cat can easily step in and out of the box.

Use unscented, clumping cat litter that you can scoop and fill the box only 2 to 3 inches deep. Your cat will not use a dirty litter box, so clean it at least once a day with a litter scoop. There are several options for clumping litter, including clay-, wheat- and corn-based formulas. Determine your cat's preference by placing litter boxes side-by-side and fill them with each type. Continue to provide the type of litter in the box your cat uses the most.

You  can also place da bird feather toys around the litter box. Choose her favorite cat clothes toys so that she'll know where the litter box is too. You can also but the litter box around the area where she usually plays these da bird kitty puff toys. This way, she can often see the litter box and learn where it is.

Place Cat Attract Litter in the litter box if your cat still refuses to use the litter box with unscented, clumping litter. This specialty litter contains ingredients designed to attract your cat to use its litter box. You can also sprinkle Cat Attract Litter Additive in your cat's regular litter to make the box more appealing to your cat.

Provide an ample number of litter boxes if you have more than one cat or more than one story to your home. You need to provide enough litter boxes for each of your cats plus one extra, according to the ASPCA. Place at least one box on each level of your home so your cat always has easy access to a litter box.

Clean previous sites of inappropriate elimination by your cat with an enzymatic cleaner to remove all traces of the urine or feces odor. This will prevent your cat from returning to these locations instead of its litter box to eliminate.

Getting Rid of Cat Spray Smell

Cats spray to mark their territory with pheromones as a way of communicating with other cats. The smell is so unmistakable, pet owners are rarely unaware of this particularly malodorous form of feline expression. Often, neutering or spaying or playing with cat wands, the cat will stop unwanted spraying. You can do this with a da bird kopter or cat clothing accessories. However, the problem of removing the smell remains. Homemade options range from the use of vinegar and baking soda to commercial products containing enzymes. Removing all traces of the cat spray smell is crucial in discouraging your cat from marking again.

A Natural Recipe
Soak up as much urine as possible with paper towels or an old towel. If the urine is on carpet or rugs, try not to rub it into the fibers.

Mix one part vinegar with one part water in a container. Pour this mixture onto the soiled area until saturated. Allow to dry.

Combine one cup of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide with 1 teaspoon of a mild liquid soap in a small spray bottle.

Sprinkle baking soda over the spot then spray with the hydrogen peroxide mixture. Test this mix on a small area of the carpet or fabric to be sure it will not stain the fibers.

Use a small scrub brush to gently work the mixture into the fibers of the carpet or rug then let dry. Vacuum the mixture and repeat if necessary.

Other Methods
Saturate the area with a commercial product such as Nature's Miracle or Odor Neutralizer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for application on various surfaces. Rather than mask the smell as deodorizers do, these products contain enzymes that will break down the molecules that cause cat spray smell. These products are available at many pet stores and department stores.

For soiled clothes, towels or other washables, pour 1/2 cup of vinegar, either white or apple cider, into the wash along with the detergent and launder as usual. Vinegar is a powerful odor neutralizer.

Spray outside bushes or sidewalks with a half and half mixture of vinegar and water until the area is free of cat spray urine.

Hire a professional. Most professional cleaners use the hot-water extraction method. This is a very effective form of steam cleaning used for deep cleaning of carpets and rugs.

Tapeworn Treatment in Cats

Almost all cats, at some point in their lives, are afflicted by internal parasites. One such parasite, the tapeworm, can be particularly troublesome, and should be treated as soon as possible. It is also possible to take some steps to prevent tapeworm infection. This article is designed to inform readers about how to prevent tapeworm infection, as well as how to cure a tapeworm infection in a cat.

Call your veterinarian if you notice the symptoms of a tapeworm infestation. A tapeworm infestation is most frequently discovered when segments of the tapeworm are found in and on a cat's stool and in the hair around the cat's anal region. Tapeworm segments often look similar to large grains of rice or small segments of a pasta noodle. They are easily visible to the naked eye.

Collect a sample of the stool and bring it to your veterinarian, who can often identify tapeworm segments on sight, but may also choose to do a fecal examination to confirm infestation. Wait for the right time to collect the sample. Play with your cat using da bird pack or cat wire wand with it before the grooming session. This da bird refill will help calm down the cat and less aggressive. It is likely that your veterinarian will require this, particularly if this is your cat's first infestation.

Cure the infestation by administering the medication that your veterinarian prescribes. Your veterinarian will likely prescribe a tapeworm dewormer, such as Droncit or Drontal, to eradicate the parasites. This medication usually consists of one dose immediately, and a second dose approximately two weeks later. After administering the medication, you may see the dead worms pass in the cat's stool. This is perfectly normal and nothing to become alarmed about.

Start your cat on some type of flea preventative to prevent further infestation, such as Frontline, Advantage or Revolution, and try to keep your pet from hunting and ingesting small animals, which can also cause infestation.

Consider obtaining a prescription from your veterinarian for the treatment medication, especially if your pet has repeated infestations. You will then be able to purchase the medication from online retailers, such as PetMeds, at a much lower cost and without having to pay for a veterinary visit.

Removing Static Cling on Cats

Excessive static cling occurs when friction between two separate surfaces results in either a positive or a negative electrical charge. Cats with long hair commonly collect quite a bit of the shocking stuff, particularly during the fall and winter. Dry and overheated environments build up static, and combing your cat adds the electrical charge, turning your kitty into a walking static cling factory. However, there are a few simple things that you can do to remove static cling from your cat's fur.

Calm him if he is agitated by petting him for a few minutes or giving him healthy treats. You can also play or exercise with your feline prior to the cleaning. You may want to do this with long cat wand. Some of these include da bird toy, cat teasers, lion cat hat etc. These products will keep your cat relaxed before the grooming session.

Apply hand cream or talcum powder to your hands before touching your cat.

Rub the cat's entire coat with a nylon stocking. This is often all that is needed.

Add moisture to your cat's fur before brushing. A completely dry coat will produce static electricity when brushed or combed. Fill a plastic spray bottle with warm water and spritz the cat's coat lightly with a fine mist. However, many cats consider this to be rude treatment, and won't stand for it. If that is your kitty, just use a clean washcloth dampened with warm water to give the pet an all-over wipe. This works very well for removing static cling.

Spritz the cat's fur with an anti-static pet spray, if the pet will permit you to do so. Otherwise, apply some of the spray to a clean washcloth, and lightly rub the entire coat with it.

Groom the cat only as much as necessary with metal or Teflon-coated combs and brushes. Don't use wire slickers or plastics. Excessive brushing and combing creates static cling in the fur.

Taking Care of Your Feline

Caring for a cat comes with a lot of responsibility because you have to provide her with everything she needs to live a healthy and happy life. You'll need to give your new feline friend food, water, a litter box, shelter, environmental enrichment, medical care and plenty of love and affection. Fortunately, the love and companionship you'll get in return make it all worth it.

Give the Cat Litter Boxes
Provide your cat with her own litter box and at least one additional box. In multiple-cat households, have one litter box more than the number of cats. Place the boxes in quiet locations, away from noisy appliances and high-traffic areas. Have at least one litter box on each floor of your home. Use clumping litter and scoop the boxes daily. Doing so keeps the stink down and limits risk of infection.

Provide Fresh Food and Water
Provide each cat with her own food and water dishes, accessible to her at all times. Place them away from her litter box. Feed dry kibble, canned food or a combination of both, one to two times per day. Commercially prepared cat food diets are nutritionally balanced for cats. Follow the feeding recommendations provided on the label of the food you choose so you don't underfeed or overfeed your kitty. The average cat needs about a quarter-cup of dry cat food per day for each 5 pounds of weight, according to the petMD website. Don't forget to change your cat's water a few times daily so that it's fresh and clean.

Visit the Vet Regularly
Bring your cat to the vet at least once per year to make sure she's healthy. Senior cats, 7 years old or older, may need two visits each year. During the visit, your vet will give your cat any necessary vaccinations, check your cat's weight, give her a full physical exam and possibly take blood, urine or fecal samples. In addition to her normal checkups, any time your cat appears ill, lethargic or otherwise unhealthy, get her to the vet right away for an exam.

Groom Your Cat Regularly
Brush your cat's coat daily to prevent her from developing hairballs, improve her skin and coat and keep her coat free of mats. Long-haired breeds may require longer grooming sessions and even the occasional professional trim near the hindquarters. While most cats groom themselves, if you need to bathe your kitty, do so with a cat-safe shampoo and warm water, or schedule a session with a professional groomer. Check her nails weekly and have them trimmed when necessary -- it's a good idea for indoors cats, despite that they sharpen them on everything in sight.

Provide Plenty of Human-Cat Interaction and Exercise
Spend time with your cat daily, letting her snuggle near you in a comfy cat bed. Interact with her using laser cat toys and feather cat wand toys to exercise her. Exercise is necessary to keep your cat physically active and prevent her from becoming obese. Provide her with plenty of da bird cat toys to keep her busy during the day and even when you're at home. The toys will help keep her active and prevent boredom.

Keep Your Cat Indoors
Keep your kitty inside and provide her with scratching posts, cat trees and a window perch or screened enclosure to enrich her environment. Indoor-only cats live longer than those allowed to go outside, according to the Humane Society of the United States. To expose your cat to the outside safely, take her for walks on a leash.

Keeping That Fur White

Keeping a cat clean is not something many cat owners think about, especially since most felines do a respectable job with their own hygiene. Cats spend a substantial amount of time grooming, up to half their waking lives. The white cat, especially the white show cat, has particular needs when it comes to grooming and bathing, as dirt, tears and debris from the litter box can all stain her beautiful fur.

Play or exercise with your feline prior to the bathing. You may want to do this with best cat products. Some of these include laser cat pointer, cat toys, teaser wand, etc. These products will keep your cat relaxed before the grooming session.

Comb your kitty with a fine-tooth comb to remove debris that may be discoloring her fur.

Using a pet wipe, clean her face and around her eyes to remove any stains from tears and cat food.

Sprinkle some cornstarch under you cat's chin, on her bib area and on her paws. Rub gently, then comb or brush away to restore these problem areas to a whiter appearance.

Create a paste by mixing the cornstarch and a small amount of peroxide. Add peroxide slowly until the consistency is like paste. Using a clean cloth, rub the mixture on any urine stains. Remove the paste with a clean, damp cloth. Don't use this mixture around kitty's eyes and nose.

Prepare your bathing area. You'll need shampoo and towels. Choosing a shampoo designed for white cats may give you better results. Open the shampoo before you begin. It's easier to do with dry hands.

Fill your basin, wash tub or sink half-full with warm water. With your right hand under your cat's belly and your left holding her front paws, gently lower her into the water.

Wet your kitty's fur using a cup or your hand. Gently pour water over her body. Once kitty is used to her bath, you may be able to use the sink's spray hose on low pressure.

Remove as much water from your cat's fur as possible by stroking her with your hands. Place her on a towel next to the sink or in the other side of the sink if you have a double sink.

Squeeze a small amount of shampoo into your hand and rub your hands together. If you need to keep one hand on your cat to keep her still, drip the shampoo along her spine to spread it out. Avoid letting large amounts of shampoo deposit onto one area; it will make rinsing far more difficult.

Shampoo kitty thoroughly, keeping the shampoo out of her eyes and the shampoo and water out of her ears.

Return kitty to the sink or basin you filled with warm water. Rinse her well, using clean water once the bath water becomes murky from shampoo. Keep a pitcher of clean, warm water standing by if your cat doesn't like the sound of running water. For long-haired cats, such as Persians, float them in the water, allowing the fur to spread out along the water's surface. Add water to the basin to raise the water level, and be sure to hold onto kitty so her face isn't submerged. Floating makes for easier shampoo removal.

Drain the tub and remove as much water as you can from your cat's fur by stroking her with your hands.Dry your cat by rubbing her gently with the towel.

Blow-dry your cat's fur on the lowest setting. Use a cooler setting than you'd use on yourself to make certain you don't burn her skin.

Unmat Cat Hair

Long-haired cats are particularly prone to matting. A mat is a clump of knotted fur that can cause a cat discomfort if allowed to mat down to the skin. Mats are usually caused by an owner's failure to groom regularly enough, so if your cat has hair prone to matting, comb it out at least once a week. If mats are allowed to get bad enough, the cat will likely need to be shaved, after which you can begin a regular grooming regimen.

Before or during the grooming session, your cat may fight, bite and scratch. It's best to take precautions to protect both yourself and the cat. However, you may attempt or try to play with gocat da bird toys with some rewards such as purina pro plan cat treats. These wand cat toys will help calm down the cat and less aggressive.

Separate the mat. Identify a mat to work on and separate it from the surrounding hair.

Hold the mat at the base of the hair shaft. Grip the base of the mat with your fingers before you start combing to avoid pulling on your cat's skin.

Use the end tine of the comb to pull apart the mat. Gently pull and separate the mat, starting furthest from the skin and working down. If the mat is too big or too stubborn to separate this way, use a pair of blunt-tipped scissors and cut once into the mat, perpendicular to the skin. Treat the two cut sections of mat as two separate mats and continue trying to pull them apart with your comb. Always untangle a mat all the way down to the skin. If a little tangle is left over, it will quickly grow to a big one again, and it will pull on your cat's skin in the meantime.

Inspect and de-mat under the joints and behind the ears. These areas have the most friction during normal activity and are the most likely to mat.

Brush through the cat's coat with a soft metal-toothed brush. Once all the major mats have been pulled apart, brush through the cat's entire coat. These brushes will pull out any last bits of matted fur and should run though the coat smoothly if the cat is fully de-matted.

Cut off the most stubborn mats. If there are mats that are just too tangled to comb out, you can carefully cut them off using your blunt-tipped scissors. Be careful not to cut the skin, as the skin of cats is very thin and could bleed profusely if nicked. Don't worry about the appearance of a cut mat, since the hair will grow back quickly.